Saturday, Sep 23rd 2017

NEW-ISH JEW-ISH CUISINE

There’s a resurgence of Jew-ish food. The (dash) signifies we’re talking about chef- driven modern Jewish cookery … or even modern Jewish heresy … rather than heavyweight Eastern European dishes.

How come now? Because chefs everywhere are today exploring their roots and cuisines … examples being
Peruvian, Korean, Mexican,
Chinese, along with Middle

Eastern fusion and Israeli. “Heritage cuisines” are being expressed … with stories behind them. In the case of new Jew-ish, we’re looking at grandchildren and great-grandchildren reinventing dishes and foodways that second- generation immigrants turned their backs on … except at holidays. Chefs are juggling

their culinary traditions with modernity … without falling into the trap of “fusion”

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